Car Care |
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TERM OF THE WEEK: ANTILOCK BRAKING SYSTEM (ABS) |
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When ABS brakes are pressed hard (for instance, in the case of a panic stop), the ABS system pumps the brakes up to 30 times per second. ABS helps the driver maintain control and stop the car in a straight line rather than spinning out of control. ABS does NOT stop the car faster. It enables the driver to stop the car in a much more controlled fashion. So when you slam on the brakes, the car will go in the direction you turn the wheel while braking. ABS also helps stop the car while driving in adverse weather conditions, such as ice, snow, and rain. When using the ABS system, it is important to apply steady, even pressure to the brake pedal and let the system take over from there. |
BUYING A USED CAR: GETTING A CAR'S HISTORY
How can you find out if there are any hidden problems in a vehicle's past? There was a time when you couldn't. However, today a company called Carfax, located in Fairfax, Va., provides a unique service. Carfax compiles information from insurance companies, DMVs (Divisions of Motor Vehicles), state and provincial agencies, and vehicle auctions (both used and salvage) in the United States and Canada. This huge database has close to one billion vehicle records in it. To obtain a Carfax report on a vehicle, call 1-800-FIND-VIN or access the Carfax Web site at: http://www.carfax.com/
All Carfax needs is the VIN (vehicle identification number), and it will give you a detailed history of the car. The cost for a report over the phone is $29.50; the cost on the Internet is $19.50. That's a small price to pay for confidence and peace of mind when buying that used car you've chosen.
DIAGNOSTIC EQUIPMENT
Effective automotive computer diagnostics and repair demand state-of-the-art equipment, cutting-edge training, and up-to-date information. You can't fix the cars of the 90s with 1968 equipment. Necessary equipment for the diagnostician includes:
- Oscilloscopes and lab scopes to read wave patterns emitted by sensors
- DVOM (Digital Volt-Ohm Meters) to measure electricity in minute amounts
- Sensor stimulators, which actuate sensors to make sure they are functioning properly
- Diagnostic computers to read the data streams of the car's performance system
Is your repair facility staying on top of a rapidly changing industry?
REMEDY FOR A GREASY WINDSHIELD
Question: My two cars have the same problem: I can't seem to get the windshield cleaned of a greasy film. This condition makes it extremely difficult to see with the wipers in operation on rainy days. Instead of cleaning the windshield, the wipers just smear the water around, making it virtually impossible to see. I have tried washing the windshield, but nothing removes the film. Do you have any suggestions on how to solve this problem?
Answer: This is a common problem that is created when oils from the road are kicked up onto the windshield from other cars when it rains. This forms a film much like an oil slick, prohibiting the wipers from doing their job. A simple fix for this condition is to wash the windshield with a solution of Bon Ami cleanser and water, and replace the wiper blades. The cleanser solution will cut the oil film. By replacing the wiper blades, you remove the oil-contaminated rubber of the old blades, which hold oil like a sponge.
TERM OF THE WEEK: ACCUMULATOR/DRYER
The accumulator/dryer is a component in a car's air conditioning system. This component serves two purposes:
- It removes moisture from the refrigerant chemical.
- It provides a storehouse where the refrigerant chemical can accumulate until it is needed to do its job--cool you off!
YOUR CAR'S DATA STREAM
Automotive computers generate signals called data streams. These streams of data flow through the operating system of your car at all times, constantly adjusting and readjusting the engine. Diagnostic computers that are interfaced with the car's computer read the data streams flowing through the system. When a problem with your computer-controlled car crops up, it shows up either in the form of a drivability problem or a lit check-engine light on the dashboard (more about this light in a future tip).
THE CHECK ENGINE LIGHT
A lit check engine light on your car's dashboard could be due to a bad sensor, a malfunctioning electrical or mechanical component, or damaged wiring and plugs. The system is designed to generate a trouble code when it "sees" a problem in the system. This code is supposed to (sometimes it doesn't) lodge in the onboard computer's memory for retrieval at a later date, aiding in diagnostics.
COMMON QUESTIONS ABOUT A CAR'S SUSPENSION
Two questions about car suspensions crop up frequently: Do all cars have shocks and struts? And, what is the difference between shocks and struts?
First, not all vehicles have both shocks and struts. Some vehicles have only struts; others have only shocks. Shocks are just one part of the overall suspension assembly; a strut is a complete suspension assembly that replaces the upper ball joint, shock, and spring with one unit.
DO YOU NEED SHOCKS OR STRUTS?
How do you know if your car needs new shocks and/or struts? Here are the signs to look for:
- Vehicle rolls or sways on turns
- Front end dives when braking
- Rear end squats when accelerating
- Vehicle bounces or slides sideways on a winding, rough road
- Vehicle "bottoms out" (with a thump) on bumps
In addition, worn shocks and/or struts can accelerate the wear of your tires and suspension parts, such as the ball joints, steering linkage, and springs.
TERM OF THE WEEK: AIR BAG
An air bag is a safety restraint device that deploys when it senses there has been severe deceleration of the vehicle. Air bags are usually located in the steering wheel and in the passenger-side dash pad. When used in conjunction with seat belts, these devices are very effective in saving lives in automobile accidents. VERY IMPORTANT: It is strongly advised that passengers maintain a distance of at least 12 inches from the air bag at all times because of the aggressive deployment rate. Being closer than 12 inches can result in injury from the air bag itself!
TIMING BELTS: A CRITICAL FUNCTION
A timing belt is the "Rodney Dangerfield" of all the belts in your car--it gets no respect! Many of today's cars are equipped with a timing belt in place of the old timing chain. The function of this small, yet critical, member is to keep your engine mechanically "in time." It's a wise idea to have this belt checked every 25,000 miles. If it snaps, major engine damage can occur.
YES, YOUR CAR DOES NEED A THERMOSTAT!
Question: I just paid $230 to have my mechanic figure out that there were holes and a "radiator stop-leak" (which he said had turned into an oatmealish substance) in the radiator of my recently purchased 1989 Toyota Tercel. When I took the car to the shop, it was running extremely hot. Steam was billowing out from under the hood, and the reserve tank was bubbling. The mechanic replaced the radiator, but the car was still running hot. I took the car back, and the mechanic suggested that I have the thermostat removed. He said that the car didn't need it. He then suggested that I have the cooling system flushed as well. I am a poor college student who really can't afford to let someone spend my money guessing what's wrong with my car! What do you suggest?
Answer: First of all, don't go back to this shop! Any shop that tells you that the car doesn't need a thermostat has no clue as to what's going on with today's cars! Microprocessors and sensors depend on a certain set of parameters from the manufacturer. Included in this mix is the engine temperature. Remove the thermostat, and you throw the computer system into a tizzy!
Find a shop that has trained technicians with up-to-date diagnostic equipment. Have the shop perform a cooling system pressure test. This test will reveal if there are any external leaks. If no leaks are found, then the shop should perform a cylinder leak down test, during which each cylinder is pressurized with compressed air. The technician traces where the pressure loss is taking place. The shop might even have to perform a compression test to determine if you have a blown cylinder head gasket. The initial cooling system pressure test shouldn't cost more than $50. Any further diagnosis will be charged at the shop's hourly rate. If the technicians find that you have major engine damage, I would suggest that you have an overall evaluation of the vehicle to see if it's worth repairing. I wish you success.
OIL FILTERS WITH CHECK VALVES
Question: A question came up recently in a conversation among some of us who like to keep our cars to a ripe old age. I could think of no one better than you to field it! I heard that Honda oil filters are designed with a check valve inside, which keeps oil up in the engine when it is not running, rather than allowing all of the oil to drain into the pan. Some suggest that this is one of the secrets to the relatively long life of Honda engines: they start under higher oil pressure because the oil is already up in the engine when it begins to turn. Is it true that all Honda oil filters have this feature?
Answer: You are correct. Honda oil filters have a check valve designed into them to prevent dry start-up of the engine. This feature ensures that oil pressure is there "right now" during cold start, because the oil is already up in the engine and not drained down into the oil pan. This is a really great idea, when you consider that without this feature, the engine is starting virtually dry of oil.
TIMING BELTS: HOW THEY WORK
In a four-stroke internal combustion engine (intake, compression, power, exhaust), the top half of the engine must be synchronized with the bottom half to complete the four-stroke cycle. The timing belt achieves this by meshing with cogs connected to the crankshaft and camshaft. The driving of these components in perfect time achieves the four-stroke cycle, producing power in your engine.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: MASTER CYLINDER
The master cylinder, a component of the brake system, serves two purposes. First, it is the reservoir for the brake fluid in your car's braking system. Second, it is the pump connected to the brake pedal--when the pedal is depressed, it creates the hydraulic pressure necessary to apply the brakes.
DIAGNOSING A BAD FLYWHEEL
Question: I have a 1988 Dodge Dakota four-cylinder with a standard transmission. The starter makes a lot of noise (sometimes it just whines). I replaced it with a starter from a junkyard, and it worked fine for a few weeks. Then it started doing the same thing again. Now, whenever the starter whines, I take hold of the fan belt, turn it about a half inch, and the engine starts up. What's going on here? Any help would be appreciated. --Rick
Answer: It's really quite simple. You have a bad flywheel--it's missing teeth. That's why turning the engine by hand starts it. What's happening? When you turn it by hand, a good set of teeth comes up and meshes with the starter; consequently, the engine cranks. It's time to drop the transmission and replace the flywheel. Success to you!
PREPARING FOR WINTER: BASIC MAINTENANCE
When preparing your vehicle for winter, make sure all maintenance is current, including oil and filter change, transmission service, and cooling system service. Pay close attention to the transmission and oil filters. Have them changed at the manufacturer's suggested intervals! Engine and transmission oils get very heavy when outside temperatures drop. Low temperatures cause oil to flow more slowly. Add into the equation a clogged filter due to dirt, and you've got substantial loss of oil flow, which makes for heat and friction buildup, and ultimately premature failure of the transmission and engine.
TIMING BELTS: A TOUGH ENVIRONMENT
The timing belt is made out of rubber and is subject to wear and tear due to mechanical and environmental conditions. The environment of the engine is quite hostile. Factors that create a perilous path for the timing belt include under-hood temperatures in excess of 500 degrees; the presence of corrosive fluids such as oil, hydraulic fluids, and battery acid; and mechanical hazards in the form of metal and hard plastics. In a future tip, we'll take a look at the signs of wear.
TIMING BELTS: ACT BEFORE THEY FAIL
The bottom line with timing belt-equipped cars is to have the timing belt checked every 25,000 miles and replaced every 50,000 miles. Telltale signs of a failing belt are cracks, cuts, worn or broken teeth, and deterioration from wear and exposure to harmful fluids and/or high temperatures. A worn timing belt can have a negative effect on engine performance. If the belt's teeth are gone, the valve timing can be affected either in excessive advancement or retardation, resulting in poor engine performance. The average cost of timing belt replacement is $200; the average cost of engine replacement is $2000. Your choice, A or B.
PREPARING FOR WINTER: STARTING THE CAR
Make sure that the performance system of your vehicle is operating up to par before winter arrives. Winter weather is very taxing on the components of this system. For instance, two requirements must be met for your car to start in cold weather:
- Rich fuel mixture
- Hot spark at the spark plugs
The extreme temperatures of winter can cause the failure of any weak components in the fuel delivery or ignition system. And, of course, without the efficient operation of these systems, the car will either not start or will run poorly. Have a computer scan done on the drivability system. During this procedure, your technician will interface a hand-held computer with the car's computer in an effort to check for any trouble codes logged in the car's computer memory. These trouble codes tell the technician how the fuel delivery and ignition systems are operating. Have anything questionable repaired.
THE BODY IS FIXED, BUT NOW THE CAR WON'T START
Question: I have a 1988 Honda Accord LX that will not start. The problem began after an accident I had in January. The left front fender, bumper and headlight, and left rear fender, bumper and lights were damaged in the accident (the bulbs still work). Immediately following the accident, I was able to drive this car from Atlanta, GA, where the accident occurred, to Norfolk, VA, where I live. I had a body shop in my hometown fix the car. Now the car will start only when it's jumped, and then it goes dead a short time later. I have had both the battery and the alternator checked out, and they are both fine. What could the problem be? I don't want to continue to take the car to a shop and have the shop fix something that is not broken. --Camille
Answer: The fact that your battery will not stay charged is evidence that something is broken! Have an electrical draw test done to determine where the electrical malady exists. My guess is that you either have a broken wire or plug in the electrical system. One other thing: Honda protects its charging systems with a circuit breaker either in the form of a fuse or a relay. Have the shop check the electrical component locator to find this circuit breaker. The fact that you had the car repaired by a collision repair facility is good because the facility might be able to submit the cost of the repair to the insurance company in the form of an insurance supplement claim. This means it would be covered by insurance. Of course, the shop must be able to prove that the source of the problem is due to the collision damage. I wish you success.
DISTRIBUTOR
The distributor is the part of the ignition system (in older systems) that "distributes" the spark to each spark plug in a timed sequence to ignite the air-fuel mixture in each cylinder of the engine, creating power. Today's ignition systems are distributor-less and use sophisticated computers, coil packs, and trigger sensors to accomplish the task.
PREPARING FOR WINTER: COOLING SYSTEM CHECKUP
Have a cooling system checkup before the cold weather strikes. This includes a protection check (-30 degrees is ideal), a pressure test for leaks, and an inspection of the radiator and all hose connections. Be sure to repair or replace these components as necessary.
CHECK THE BATTERY AND CHARGING SYSTEM
Regular battery and charging system checks are a must! They will reveal any potential problems, allowing you to head them off at the pass. Every six months is sufficient. Why every six months? Because with changing operational and environmental conditions, components in this system wear out. During this test, your technician should check the battery condition, connections, and alternator output, and conduct an electrical draw test. Finally, a good inspection of the alternator drive belt puts the cherry on top!
PREPARING FOR WINTER: INSPECTING AND PROTECTING
When preparing your vehicle for winter, have the brakes, steering, drivetrain, and suspension inspected and repair anything questionable. Replace any torn protective rubber boots, since torn boots will allow road salt, dirt, and grit to contaminate the component. This causes loss of lubrication, which in turn causes high friction and ultimately failure of the component.
BRAKE CALIPER
The brake caliper is the part of a disc brake system that acts like a giant "C" clamp. It clamps down on the disc (which is connected to the wheels) to stop your car when you step on the brake. The caliper contains a large piston that moves in and clamps down on the brake pads (when hydraulic pressure is applied from depressing the brake pedal). The brake pads ride on the discs, ultimately slowing and eventually stopping the car.
IS THE "FIRST SCHEDULED TUNE-UP" REALISTIC?
First scheduled tune-up, 100,000 miles! This seems to be the mantra of car makers today: maintenance-free cars! Nothing could be further from the truth. In a laboratory, under perfect test conditions, with no dirt or extreme temperatures, I imagine it could be possible to log 100,000 miles on spark plugs and ignition components. But we're talking real world here.
Engines are subject to dirt, extreme temperatures, and component failure. Dirt causes air filter elements to clog up, which leads to increasing fuel consumption, excessive carbon buildup, and fouled spark plugs. Extreme cold causes the computer to adjust the fuel delivery system to a very rich condition, once again creating excessive carbon buildup. TPS (Throttle Position Sensor), temperature, and MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensors go bad, causing a domino effect that results in the failure of other components in the system. Have a checkup of the performance system done every 25,000 miles. This will save you money and downtime of the car.
THE STRESS OF TOWING
Question: I have a 1999 Ford Explorer V6 with a 4.10 gear ratio. I elected the 4.10 ratio for towing purposes. While running in overdrive at 70 mph, I'm running 2500 rpm. Out of overdrive at 70 mph, I'm running 3500 to 3600 rpm. I've always been advised to tow out of overdrive, and I understand why. However, I'm concerned with the 3600 rpm range while traveling a long distance.
I'm pulling a race boat that is close to 2,500 pounds. I often run trips in the 500- to 600-mile range (one way) to the race site. I do run in overdrive IF the transmission doesn't jump in and out of gear. If it does, I drop out of overdrive and slow down (and face the chance of getting run over while driving at 60 mph!). Will it strain my engine if it runs long distances at 3600 rpm? Do I face the choice of saving the engine or the transmission? --Joe
Answer: Running at 3600 rpm (under load, may I add) is a bit high to run an engine for extended periods of time. I don't like it! Furthermore, I don't like what it will do to the transmission (especially if the vehicle did not come with a towing package). I don't think you will have to make a choice which unit will go (the engine or the transmission). Both of them probably will go on their own accord!
Unfortunately, many people face this dilemma when they buy a truck. They figure the truck will handle the load, so they don't go for the towing package. Then the truck gives out prematurely and they wonder why. Towing packages consist of heavy duty gearing setups in the transmission, heavier differentials, larger cooling systems for the extra cooling required, heavier suspensions to handle the weight, an additional transmission oil cooler, and in some cases, larger engines to handle the anticipated load. If you don't have a towing package, the only suggestion I can make at this point is to possibly go to a taller set of tires. Consult your dealer before making this move. I wish you success.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: SHOCK ABSORBER
The shock absorber, a component of the suspension system, acts as the
damper of the car's springs. Were it not for the shock absorber in
your car's suspension, your car would bounce its merry way down the
freeway, making you feel like a cowboy riding a bucking bronco. The
shocks also aid in keeping the tires down on the road, counteracting
the action created not only by the springs, but by bumps in the road.
This function keeps tire wear to a minimum.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: THERMOSTAT
A thermostat provides a controlled restriction in the cooling system,
which by design slows the flow of coolant. This achieves two things:
1. It increases the engine temperature to the manufacturer's
specifications, delivering heat to the car's interior as well as
delivering maximum engine performance and efficiency.
2. It slows the coolant flow so it stays in the radiator long enough
to be cooled off by the outside air rushing over the radiator.
AVOIDING CAR THEFT: MAKE IT HARD TO TOW
Many car thieves use tow trucks to steal vehicles. Park your vehicle
with wheels turned toward the curb; this maneuver makes your car tough
to tow away. You should also turn your wheels to the side in driveways
and parking lots so the vehicle can only be towed from the front.
If your vehicle is rear-wheel drive, back into your driveway. Rear
wheels lock on four-wheel drive vehicles, making them difficult to
tow. Front-wheel drive vehicles should be parked front end first.
Always use your emergency brake when parked. In addition to ensuring
safety, using the emergency brake makes your car harder to tow.
AVOIDING CAR THEFT: THE BASICS
Want to guard against car theft? Here are a few basic things you
should do:
- Lock your car. Approximately 50 percent of all vehicles stolen were
left unlocked.
- Take your keys. Nearly 13 percent of all vehicles stolen had the
keys in them.
- Never hide a second set of keys in your car. Thieves know all the
hiding places!
- Park in well-lit areas. More than half of all vehicle thefts occur
at night.
FULL-TIME FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
Full-time four-wheel drive is the most commonly used system on the
market. Full-time 4WD offers a two-wheel drive mode for summertime
driving or dry road conditions, and an automatic 4WD mode for changing
road conditions. You also have 4WD high and 4WD low modes for when the
going really gets tough. The automatic 4WD mode makes this system
convenient for many drivers.
In addition to the transmission and transfer gearbox, a center
differential is used to couple the front and rear wheels. The
differential allows the front and rear wheels to turn at different
speeds as needed, letting the full-time 4WD work automatically. Very
simply, when engaged in automatic 4WD on a dry, straight road, the
system operates in two-wheel drive. When the wheels start to spin due
to slippery road conditions, the system reacts to wheel spin by
progressively locking the front and rear wheels together to optimize
traction. This system is limited in that it requires the driver to
determine when to engage it.
PART-TIME FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
Part-time four-wheel drive is the most basic of all four-wheel drive
systems. It gives the driver the ability to choose when to drive in
two-wheel drive or four-wheel drive. This is all good and well, until
you realize that you really can't engage the 4WD on pavement unless
it's very, very slippery. That's because, with this system, when you
engage 4WD you lock the front and rear wheels together through the
transmission and transfer gearbox. This is great for straight-ahead
traction on very slippery surfaces. However, on dry pavement, it makes
for odd driving, cornering, and handling characteristics. Also, you
can harm the drivetrain components by driving in 4WD for extended
periods of time while on dry pavement. So why choose this type of
system? Three reasons:
*It's less costly to build and therefore to buy
*It's often very durable under heavy stress
*When you don't need 4WD, you can disengage it
PERMANENT FOUR-WHEEL DRIVE
Permanent 4WD is similar to full-time 4WD (which we discussed in a
previous tip), but it has no two-wheel drive mode. The vehicle is
always in 4WD, so you don't have to determine whether conditions are
right to engage it. We still have the transmission, transfer gearbox,
and center differential coupling the front and rear wheels. The only
difference is that torque (or power) is constantly being applied to
all the wheels, giving maximum traction in all weather and road
conditions. Current systems have high and low modes for when the going
gets tough. Most importantly, the system does the thinking for you: It
automatically applies as much lockup (to all the wheels) as necessary
for maximum traction.
GRINDING ALUMINUM WHEELS
Question: I am told that aluminum wheels need to be ground every year
or so to remove oxidation or else tire leaks can develop. Can you
comment on this? If I had known this, I might not have purchased
aluminum wheels. --Sam
Answer: Every year is a bit excessive. However, I would recommend
having them checked every three years and cleaned as necessary. A good
way to slow the oxidation process almost to a halt is to use tire glue
when you mount the tires. The glue forms a shield and decreases
exposure to moisture, slowing down the oxidation process. I wish you
success.
SPARE THE CLUTCH, RUIN THE TRANSMISSION?
Question: My friend has a '95 Dodge Neon with a five-speed manual
transmission. Her boss told her she doesn't need to use the clutch to
shift gears. She has found it shifts just fine without the clutch. She
believes that the clutch will last longer if she doesn't use it. I
tried to tell her it was hard on the transmission, but I couldn't
explain why (in a convincing manner). Could you help? It would be
greatly appreciated. --Jim
Answer: Tell your friend that if she continues shifting this way, she
will save her clutch. However, by the same token, she will wear out
the shifter forks and the synchronizer rings in her transmission. So
it's her choice--replace the clutch for $500 or the transmission for
$1,500. I personally would choose the clutch.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: ALTERNATOR
The alternator converts the 12-volt DC (direct current) from the
battery into AC (alternating current) at the rate of 13.8 to 14.2
volts, which is necessary to operate your car's performance and
electrical systems. By its nature, alternating current is generated at
a higher rate and is more stable (critical to automotive application).
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Automatic transmission refers to a transmission in which the gears are
shifted automatically using hydraulics and electricity. A series of
gears are applied as the need arises. This need is determined by
vehicle weight, load, and the demand placed upon the performance
system. Automatic transmissions come in 3, 4, and 5 speeds. With 4-
and 5-speed transmissions, the highest gear is for overdrive.
Overdrive reduces engine demand and provides better gas mileage while
you're driving on the highway.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: CHASSIS
Once upon a time, the chassis was simply defined as the frame of the
car, which provided the strength and served as the foundation of the
vehicle. The body, engine, drivetrain components, and suspension were
attached to it. Today, few vehicles other than trucks have separate
frames. The chassis structure is incorporated into the body
components. This type of construction is known as uni-body
construction.
AVOIDING CAR THEFT: EXTRA SECURITY
If you have a garage, use it. Parking your vehicle inside protects it
from thieves as well as from Mother Nature. When parked in a garage,
lock the garage door as well as your vehicle. By locking both the
garage and vehicle doors, you greatly improve the chances of deterring
a thief.
Never leave the registration or title in your car. A car thief will
use these to sell your stolen car. File the title at your home or
office, and carry your registration in your purse or wallet.
Disable your vehicle when leaving it unattended for an extended
period. Remove the electronic ignition fuse, coil wire, rotor
distributor, or otherwise disable your vehicle anytime thieves may
have prolonged access to it.
AVOIDING CAR THEFT: TECHNIQUES WORTH THE TROUBLE
Replace T-shaped door locks with straight locks. Some vehicle doors
have lock assemblies at window level that flare out in a knob or "T"
shape. A thief can use various tools to gain access inside the vehicle
in order to grab and pull the lock. Straight locks prevent this.
Etch your Vehicle Identification Number (VIN) on car windows and major
parts. This makes tracing your stolen car or parts easier. But do NOT
use an engraving tool on glass windows.
Engrave expensive accessories with a personal identification number.
This makes it easier for police to identify your stolen car stereo,
cellular phone, etc., and harder for thieves to dispose of them.
Drop business cards, address labels, or other identification inside
vehicle doors. Car thieves usually alter VINs. By marking your vehicle
as much as possible, you assist police in identifying your car.
CALIPER SLIDES
Question: I have a 1996 Olds Cutlass Supreme that is still under
warranty. The rear brakes are shot-calipers (rotors, etc., need
replacement). I found two Tech Service Bulletin numbers but cannot
find the actual bulletins. Does anyone know about the problems and
what the bulletins say? I want to be knowledgeable when I go for the
repairs, and I want to know what is covered and what is not. Any help
would be appreciated.
--Bill
Answer: Bill, unfortunately, there are no recalls on this, since it is
considered an environmental problem. Very simply, rust forms on the
caliper slides, causing them to seize and thus causing the pads and
rotors to wear out. The only remedy is to have the caliper slides
cleaned and lubricated every six months and make sure you use the
emergency brake. This ensures that the calipers stay free.
CARDBOARD WON'T IMPROVE VAN'S HEATING
Question: I have a 1991 Chevy Astrovan. What are the advantages and
disadvantages of putting a piece of cardboard in front of my radiator
for improved heat?
--D. Smith
Answer: By reducing the air flow, you will do two things. First,
you'll throw off the air flow sensor for the injection system, which
will send the computer into a tizzy trying to compensate for the
reduced air flow it sees. In addition, you will throw the engine
temperature off, which will also screw up the computer. My advice is
to replace the thermostat and have the heating system checked out.
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Over the past 27 years, Tom Torbjornsen has been an automotive
technician, an auto service manager, the manager of a tire and auto
service center, and the owner of an automotive tool and equipment
business. Immersed in the crossfire between the automotive industry
and the motoring public for years, Tom saw a need for a way to educate
the consumer; so in 1991 he decided to start a radio program: The Car
Show With Tom Torbjornsen. You can hear the show on the Web at
http://www.carshowtomt.com/
by clicking on the Listen To The Show icon. You can send e-mail to Tom
at tomt@carshowtomt.com, although he cannot personally reply to all
submissions.
SHOPPING FOR REPAIR FACILITIES: CERTIFICATIONS
When considering a repair facility, find out if the technicians have
certification from ASE and Delco, and from manufacturers such as
General Motors, Ford, or Chrysler. Do they have after-market training
from such leaders as NAPA, Moog, TRW, or Bendix? How about continued
education from a technical college? These shingles indicate that the
technicians are trained in the newest technology and know how to fix
your car. Don't entrust your $20,000 automobile to incompetent
mechanics just because they offered you a lower price! Remember that
you're looking at the long-term cost. Don't sell yourself short for a
few bucks.
SHOPPING FOR REPAIR FACILITIES: SPECIALISTS
Start shopping for a repair facility before you need one. You'll make
better decisions when you're not under pressure.
What kind of repair do you need? Will it require a specialist or can a
general repair facility handle the job? Remember that specialists cost
more money initially because they know how to pinpoint and repair
problems faster than a general repairman, but they will save you money
in the long run because there's less guessing--they know their area!
You usually find specialists in these areas: transmission and
drivetrain, computer and electrical, engine repair, and collision
repair.
Remember, a job done right the first time means less downtime, no
comebacks, and no guesswork replacing part after part, hoping to fix
the car. This can be time-consuming, frustrating, and expensive, to
say the least!
SHOPPING FOR REPAIR FACILITIES: THE BACKGROUND CHECK
When looking for a good repair facility, ask around town about the
facility you are considering. Good "word of mouth" is a positive sign.
Here are some questions to ask:
- Does the facility fix it right the first time, or do you find
yourself going back for the same problem repeatedly?
- Does the facility call you with an estimate before the work is done,
and is the estimate right every time? If not, keep looking.
- What are the warranties on parts and labor?
Membership in such associations as the Better Business Bureau, the
American Automobile Association, ICAR (Inter-Industry Conference on
Auto Collision Repair), NAPA AutoCare, and ASE (National Institute for
Automotive Service Excellence) indicates that the facility owner cares
about the quality of work, is proud of the automotive industry, and
operates by a code of ethics.
STARTING PROBLEMS
Question: I have an interesting question. I own a 1998 Ford Ranger
5-speed manual pickup, with four-wheel drive and 19,000 miles on it.
Last Friday, when I went to start my truck, it didn't even turn
over--no clicking, nothing. The battery and the connections are all
OK. Here's where it gets interesting: My boyfriend didn't want me to
leave that night. So, I'm just wondering--is there anything he could
have done to prevent my car from starting? Also, all the fuses were in
the fuse holder--none were blown. Miraculously, the car started right
up Monday morning when I had to go to work. Is there some sort of
neutral safety switch/fuse that he could have disconnected? He claims
to know nothing about this, but I'm having serious doubts!
--Kathy
Answer: Kathy, I will try to take up the mantle of either Dr. Ruth or
Dr. Laura, whichever is apropos. On second thought, let's not go
there! Sounds to me like your truck has either an intermittent problem
in the ignition switch, starter, or starter solenoid if it is so
equipped. Of course, there's always the possibility of poor
connections in the wiring harnesses, as well as poor or dirty battery
connections. I suppose that your boyfriend could have disconnected the
ignition switch or solenoid--but that's something you'll have to
squeeze out of him. I wish you success.
TOP TEN STOLEN VEHICLES IN 1998
Auto thieves target the most popular vehicles because they can make
the most money off their stolen parts. Though popular vehicles vary by
city, the nation's top ten stolen vehicles in 1998 were:
1. Honda Accord
2. Toyota Camry
3. Chevrolet full-size Pickup (C/K)
4. Jeep SUV (Cherokee/Grand Cherokee)
5. Honda Civic
6. Oldsmobile Cutlass
7. Ford full-size Pickup (F-Series)
8. Ford Mustang
9. Dodge Caravan
10. Toyota Corolla
A vehicle is stolen every 23 seconds in the United States. These
automobiles are then stripped and used for parts, vandalized, or
destroyed. Almost one-third are never recovered. Don't be a
statistic--prepare yourself.
ALIGNMENT AND STRUTS
Question: I have a 1991 Plymouth Acclaim with 87,500 miles on it.
There is no problem with the front end, such as uneven tire wear or
anything else. I am thinking of having the wheels aligned, and I am
wondering if the front struts should be replaced as a matter of
course. I plan on keeping the car "forever." What do you think? Also,
is a four-wheel alignment, rather than a two-wheel alignment, worth
it?
--Pat
Answer: Have a bounce test and a leak test done. The bounce test
involves rocking the car until it is bouncing pretty good, then
stepping back and observing it. The car should bounce a half time,
then settle. If it keeps going, the struts are bad. The leak test is
simply checking the strut body for evidence of oil leakage. If it's
leaking, replace it. Get a four-wheel alignment--it's worth it. You
will save tire wear on all four tires. Good luck!
SHOPPING FOR REPAIR FACILITIES: THE LATEST TECHNOLOGY
When investigating the quality of a repair facility, ask if the
facility is equipped with state-of-the-art equipment such as hand-held
computer scanners, digital volt-ohm meters, logic probes, and online
computer systems such as CAS, Alldata, or Mitchell On Demand. These
allow for accurate diagnosis and repairs on your car. You can't fix
the cars of the 90's with 1968 technology and equipment. Equipment
must be up to date!
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: FUEL INJECTION
Fuel injection is an electronic system that increases performance and
fuel economy. This is achieved by monitoring engine conditions, then
automatically adjusting the air/fuel mixture based on the engine's
demand. Unlike a carburetor, which mixes fuel and air together before
loading it into the cylinder intake port, fuel injection injects the
air/fuel mixture directly into the cylinder, enabling more exacting
control over the quantity used. It eliminates the need for a
carburetor and the constant adjusting that goes with it.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM--CATALYTIC CONVERTER
The catalytic converter is an emissions control device that is part of
your exhaust system. Its purpose is to reduce harmful tailpipe
emissions caused by the engine. The catalytic converter lowers exhaust
emissions by creating a catalysis (chemical reaction) within itself.
Here's how it works: Hot exhaust gas flows through the converter,
which is filled with sulfur. The sulfur heats up to cherry red,
burning any unburned gas that might be in the exhaust flow.
Ultimately, tailpipe emissions are reduced.
CONCEPT CARS
Recently, I spoke at length with a factory representative from
DaimlerChrysler. I told him that concept cars were an enigma to me.
Why waste technology, resources, brilliant minds, and precious time on
a product that will probably not go to market? After talking with him,
I felt as if I had just come down from "Automotive Guru Mountain" and
all my sparkplugs had been fired! It was truly an eye-opening
experience! Here's what he said:
"Concept cars are designed with two purposes in mind. Number one, to
test the serviceability of new automotive technology. Number two, to
see the reaction of the public to new designs. This gives us direction
for the development of new products. It tells us what consumers want.
"Say, for instance, that people raved about a new speedometer design,
or maybe they loved the sleek bodylines on a particular 'model' car.
Perhaps a new color was a hit. These responses are taken into
consideration in new product development, and these features may show
up in a new model down the road. In recent years, the public demand is
to bring the whole car to market, so that's what we do. The public
must realize that they have the power to bring a concept to market.
All they have to do is tell us."
I don't know about you, but that excites the daylights out of me!
REMOTE CAR STARTERS
Question: What are your thoughts on remote car starters? I'm
considering purchasing one for my husband, but I'm not sure if these
starters could damage the car. Thanks!--Marie
Answer: Marie, remote car starters are okay, providing:
1. They are properly installed by an expert, so that they can co-exist
with the car's computer system. In addition, cars equipped with
factory-installed security systems can be tricky when it comes to the
electrical system. So, at the risk of being redundant, make sure you
deal with a technician who knows what he or she is doing!
2. You properly maintain the car, making sure the oil changes are done
every 3,000 miles. Why oil changes? Because without fresh oil in the
engine, running the engine during cold-start and warm-up can damage it
due to friction and wear. Viscosity breakdown reduces the oil's
ability to lubricate, especially during cold starts! Keep fresh oil in
the car and enjoy your remote starter without the concern of engine
damage. Success to you!
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE--AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSIONS
Just like the oil in your car's engine, the transmission oil (or fluid
as it is known) is subject to degradation from heat, friction, and
dirt. The environment within an automatic transmission is hostile, to
say the least. Fluid breakdown can cause premature failure of the
transmission. Close to nine out of ten transmission failures are due
to overheating and fluid contamination, according to ATRA (Automatic
Transmission Rebuilder's Association). In addition, automatic
transmissions require regular maintenance, according to the TRNI
(Transmission Rebuilder's Network International). The rule of thumb:
Replace the fluid and filter every 30,000 miles or once annually,
whichever comes first.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE--COMPONENTS
The drivetrain of your vehicle is defined as the components that are
responsible for transferring power to the drive wheels. Maintenance
operations should be performed on these components according to the
manufacturer's specifications; your owner's manual outlines all the
details. Failure to perform these scheduled maintenance procedures
results in drivetrain component failure. Here are some examples of
components that suffer from lack of drivetrain maintenance:
*Transmissions (standard and automatic)
*Differentials
*Transfer cases
*Driveshafts and half shafts
*Wheel bearings on drive wheels
I will discuss these areas in more detail in upcoming tips.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE--STANDARD TRANSMISSIONS
Standard transmissions are not quite as touchy as automatic
transmissions; however, it's a good idea to have them checked during
every oil change. Standard transmissions use one of three lubricants:
ATF (automatic transmission fluid), 30W motor oil, or 90W-gear lube.
When checking the fluid, you are checking for the level, the presence
of moisture in the transmission, or the presence of wear particles
(either in the form of metal or friction material). A small amount of
wear material is acceptable. However, excessive wear material can
indicate a problem, as can a low level (indicating a leak). The
presence of moisture in the transmission could indicate a faulty vent
or a crack in the transmission's case. If the oil is not changed,
excessive friction and heat buildup takes place, resulting in
premature transmission failure. The maintenance (or fluid change)
interval for transmissions that use ATF and 30W motor oil is every
50,000 miles. For 90W-gear lubes, the recommended interval is 80,000
miles.
HOW TO BUY A USED CAR
Question: I've found your advice to car owners very useful. I'm
currently looking for a second-hand car. What are the most important
things to check when getting a used car? I had a bad experience once.
The A/C compressor of my first used car broke down after only three
days. I would appreciate it very much if you would advise me.
Thanks.--Josephine
Answer: Josephine, go to my Web site at
http://www.carshowtomt.com
Click on the How To Buy A Car section, where you'll find choice
articles on what to look for when buying a car. In addition, search
the archive of Tom's Corner for the article on how to protect yourself
when buying a used car. In short, you must have the vehicle checked by
a TRUSTED automotive professional. I call this a pre-purchase
inspection. The technician should follow a systematic procedure, which
will reveal any existing or potential problems with the car BEFORE you
buy it. I hope this helps. If you have more questions, please feel
free to contact me at
mailto:tomt@carshowtomt.com
WASHING YOUR VEHICLE DURING WINTER SALTING CONDITIONS
A 1992 Cornell University study shows that most rust action is the
result of road salt, and it is 20 to 30 times greater in spring than
in winter. The reason is rising temperatures, which, like humidity,
trigger salt-caused oxidation. Cornell researchers warn you to keep
your car out of heated garages during the winter, because heat
increases salt corrosion.
If you live in the Salt Belt, you should wash your car at least once
every week during salt-use periods (even if your car is rust
protected). What counts the most is washing the underside, especially
under fender wells and other enclosed areas such as doors. Paint
doesn't rust, but the metal behind it does. If you use a commercial
car wash, ask if the facility uses fresh or recycled water. The
Cornell team found that recycled water often contains significant
amounts of road salt, which of course is sprayed all over your car,
accelerating rust!
Another reason to wash the underside weekly is because of the effects
of salt corrosion on the electrical wiring and connections of your
vehicle. If salt gets into the wiring via cracked insulation or a bad
electrical plug, corrosion inhibits the electrical flow and causes a
component or circuit to malfunction.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE--NEW TECHNOLOGY FOR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
MAINTENANCE
In the past, it was impossible to drain all of the fluid out of an
automatic transmission because factories did not design a way to drain
the fluid out of the torque converter. Consequently, all you could
drain was the fluid within the transmission's pan (about four quarts).
Recently, a couple of fluid service companies (Wynns and Trans Tech
come to mind) came up with a new technology for complete exchange of
automatic transmission fluid. The procedure involves temporarily
installing a machine on your car capable of performing what I call a
"transmission fluid transfusion." Old fluid is pumped out, and at the
same time new fluid is pumped in. In essence, a complete exchange
occurs without anyone having to disassemble the transmission! I
recommend having the filter replaced when you have this service
performed. Why put clean fluid in the transmission and leave an old
filter impregnated with dirt? This is a great alternative to changing
just a portion of the fluid, mixing new with old and thus
contaminating the new fluid and filter.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE--OTHER DRIVETRAIN COMPONENTS
In addition to the transmission, vehicles have other components as
part of their drivetrains. Below, I've classified the vehicles by
types of drive systems; each class is followed by a list of the
components that make up their respective drivetrains.
*Four-wheel-drive vehicles--transfer case, locking hubs, driveshafts,
and front and rear differentials (some have an additional center
differential)
*Front-wheel-drive vehicles--half shafts and wheel bearings
*Rear-wheel-drive vehicles--driveshafts and differentials
*All-wheel-drive vehicles--differentials (front, rear, and center) and
driveshafts
We'll discuss proper maintenance of these components in the next tip.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM--SUSPENSION
A vehicle's suspension system is made up of the components on which
the vehicle rides, including shock absorbers, struts, springs (coil or
leaf), sway bars, ball joints, control arms, and torsion bars. These
parts work together to provide a smooth, comfortable ride, as well as
good control and handling of the vehicle. These components take a
beating on a daily basis and, therefore, wear out. This wear causes
the alignment angles to go out of adjustment, which results in tire
wear and poor handling. That's why it's a good practice to have
alignment checks every 12,000 miles or 12 months, whichever comes
first.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM--VALVE BODY
The valve body is the brain of the transmission. Up-and-down shifting
is controlled by the valve body through hydraulic pressure and
electronic commands from the vehicle's performance system. The valve
body directs the flow of transmission oil to where it is needed in
order for the transmission to perform a function (for example, the
application of "passing gear"). The environment within which the valve
body operates must be sterile. Varnish buildup and wear material can
clog the valve body, causing erratic shift patterns of the
transmission. This is why you should have the transmission fluid and
filter changed every 30,000 miles.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE: COMPONENT MAINTENANCE--PART 1 OF 2
As we promised in our last tip, here's a roundup of proper maintenance
for particular drivetrain components. Today, we'll consider the
transfer case and locking hubs; in the next tip, the differential,
half shafts and wheel bearings, and driveshafts.
Transfer case--Have it checked during every oil change. Transfer cases
use one of three lubricants: ATF (automatic transmission fluid), 30W
motor oil, or 90W-gear lube. When checking the fluid, you are checking
for the level, the presence of moisture, or the presence of wear
particles (either in the form of metal or friction material). A small
amount of wear material is acceptable. However, excessive wear
material can indicate a problem, as can a low level (indicating a
leak). The presence of moisture in the transmission could indicate a
faulty vent or a crack in the transmission's case. If the oil is not
changed, excessive friction and heat buildup take place, resulting in
premature transfer case failure. The maintenance (or fluid change)
interval for transfer cases that use ATF and 30W motor oil is every
50,000 miles. For 90W-gear lubes, the recommended interval is 80,000
miles.
Locking hubs--Maintenance of these is extremely critical. Locking hubs
come in two forms: automatic and manual. Regardless of which one you
have, the hubs must be disassembled, cleaned, and lubricated every 12
months or 12,000 miles, whichever comes first. Snow, ice, water, salt,
and mud usually find their way into these mechanized units, rendering
them useless and costing the owner big bucks! By keeping up the
maintenance on the locking hubs, you minimize expense and downtime.
DRIVETRAIN MAINTENANCE: COMPONENT MAINTENANCE--PART 2 OF 2
In our last tip, we looked at proper maintenance for the transfer case
and locking hubs. Today, we conclude our look at drivetrain
maintenance by examining the differential, half shafts and wheel
bearings, and driveshaft.
Differential--The differential is the drivetrain component that
delivers power to the wheels. It doesn't require a whole lot of
maintenance, except to check the fluid level during every oil change.
The technician should check the gear lubricant for proper level,
color, and consistency. A low lubricant level indicates a leak. A
milky color indicates moisture in the lubricant (which can result in
increased heat, friction, and ultimately failure of the unit). The
presence of metal in the lubricant indicates mechanical wear. Check
your owner's manual for the recommended fluid change intervals, as
they vary from carmaker to carmaker. The axle bearing up-and-down and
side-to-side play should be checked for excessive movement as well.
Excessive play indicates a worn bearing that should be replaced.
Half shafts and wheel bearings--Half shafts must be checked during
every oil change for wear and dents. These shafts must be perfectly
balanced and aligned in order to turn "true" while driving the front
wheels. If they are out of balance due to dents or misalignment, there
will be vibration in the drivetrain. This vibration causes additional
wear on related components such as transmission out-driveshafts,
transaxle components, seals, tail shafts, and CV (constant velocity)
joints. In addition, keep an eye on the CV joint boots. When these
crack or split, the combination of centrifugal force and drive force
throws the lubricant out from the boot, exposing the CV joint to the
weather and road elements, and accelerating wear. Have the wheel
bearings checked for up-and-down as well as side-to-side play.
Excessive play indicates a worn bearing that should be replaced.
Driveshafts--Check the driveshaft for loose universal joints and
misalignment. A shaft that is not turning "true" will wear out related
components, such as transmission tail shaft bearings and differential
pinion bearings. A check of up-and-down and side-to-side play of the
axle bearings will bring to light any potential problems before they
get to pocket-draining levels.
TRACKING DOWN A BATTERY DRAIN
Question: I have a 1987 Olds Delta 88. If I let it sit for one day,
the battery is drained. I don't have many power features on this car,
and everything seems to be working (rear defogger, lighter, radio).
How can I go about searching for the source to this annoying
problem?--Harry O
Answer: Harry, you have to perform an electrical draw test. During
this test, a digital volt ohmmeter is hooked up to the vehicle's
battery and each electrical circuit is temporarily disconnected from
the electrical system until the parasitic draw is identified by a drop
in voltage. I would start by accessing a wiring diagram to determine
which circuits are live with the key off. Then start eliminating them
by disconnecting the fuses and electrical plugs that feed these
circuits. The process is time-consuming and tedious. If you're
experienced, go for it! If you're not, then hire a professional.
Expect to pay at the shop's skilled labor rate on a time and material
basis. I wish you success.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM--TRACTION CONTROL
Traction control is an option on many cars today. When engaged, it
"senses" when a driving tire has no traction. The system will then
compensate for this by slowing the spinning wheel through partial
application of the brake. The system uses wheel speed sensors to
monitor the wheel speed. When traction is lost, the sensor prompts the
brake computer to partially apply the brake to the wheel that is
spinning, allowing it to gain traction. I call it "antilock brakes in
reverse." This system improves traction in areas where it may normally
be hard to do so (for example, snow, gravel, and rain). Traction
control has its origins in Formula One Racing, where optimum traction
is a must for safety and maximum performance.
AUTOMOTIVE TERM--VALVE
A valve is a device that is controlled mechanically or electrically to
meter or prevent the flow of a liquid or gas. Most internal combustion
engines use intake and exhaust valves to control the flow of the
air/fuel mixture into the combustion chamber and to exhaust burnt
gases. Some engines have up to four valves per cylinder to increase
efficiency and performance. Other automotive applications use valves
as well. Cooling systems, transmissions, and air conditioning systems
use valves where metering of a liquid or gas is necessary.
COMMUNICATING WITH YOUR TECHNICIAN
For effective auto repair, it's essential that you communicate, as
specifically as possible, when and under what conditions a problem
occurs. The technician will be able to diagnose and solve the problem
more quickly, possibly saving you time, money, and aggravation. To
help explain a problem to your technician, think about questions like
the ones below before you visit the service shop:
*Does the problem occur when the engine is hot or cold?
*Is the problem worse when you turn right or left?
*Does the problem seem to be affected by braking or accelerating?
*Exactly when did the problem start? Did you notice it immediately
after getting gas?
Be as specific and detailed as possible. When you're with your doctor
and he asks you, "What's the problem?" you tell him all the symptoms
you are experiencing so that he can treat you. Vehicle diagnosis and
repair is no different!
Make sure you explain the problem to your service provider in your OWN
words. Don't try to speak in technical terms, because you might
communicate inaccurate information and actually interfere with the
diagnostic process. Take either your service writer or the technician
working on your car out for a road test. Show that person exactly what
problem you want addressed. This takes the guessing out of the repair
process and makes for more accurate diagnosis and repair.
GETTING THE HIGHEST VALUE ON THE RESALE OF YOUR CAR--PART 1 OF 3
You're at the point where you're going to sell your car. You ask,
"Tom, how do I get the highest value for my car?" This question
resounds throughout the ranks of those selling their chariots. First,
I want to advise you to get off the horse of emotion when ascribing a
value to your car. What do I mean by this? Well, whether they want to
admit it or not, many people develop emotional attachments to their
vehicles and view them as more valuable than they really are. This is
understandable. However, emotion has no place when it comes to pricing
your vehicle. Once you adopt that frame of mind, get your hands on a
pricing guide and price the car realistically, taking into
consideration the year, make, model, condition, equipment, and
mileage.
Here are the most common concerns that buyers have when purchasing a
used vehicle:
*Service history
*Exterior and interior condition
*Mileage
*Equipment
We'll discuss these concerns in the next two tips.
GETTING THE HIGHEST VALUE ON THE RESALE OF YOUR CAR--PART 2 OF 3
Here's a closer look at the most common concerns buyers have when
purchasing used vehicles:
Service history: The service history is much like the pedigree papers
you receive when buying a purebred animal. The buyer is looking for
consistency in maintenance practices. It's a good sign when the
maintenance schedule established by the carmaker has been
followed--for example, regular oil and filter changes, transmission
service, tire rotations, and wheel alignments. All these things
indicate that the car has been maintained. The buyer is also looking
for any major repairs that have been done and why. If a repair such as
half-shaft replacement keeps popping up frequently, this could
indicate an underlying problem, such as a bad transmission or shifted
or broken motor mounts. This could steer the would-be buyer away from
the car. Bottom line: To get maximum resale value, keep the car
maintained and in good working order, with supporting documentation.
Exterior and interior condition: Common sense reigns here! If the
car's interior looks like it ought to be condemned by the health
department--french fries ground into the carpet, cigarette burns,
stains of unknown origin (you get my drift), or the exterior would
make it eligible to enter an ugly-car contest with the likelihood of
winning--chances are you will not realize the value you could get if
the car were clean! Research done by the Car Care Council, based on
national auto auction statistics, indicates that an "extra-clean"
vehicle may be worth one-and-a-half times as much as the same vehicle
in "average" condition (mileage and equipment being the same)! So, you
might want to spend the money for a professional detail if the car is
dirty.
GETTING THE HIGHEST VALUE ON THE RESALE OF YOUR CAR--PART 3 OF 3
Today, we'll look at a few more of the common concerns buyers have
when purchasing used vehicles:
Mileage: Today, with improved technology, more and more vehicles are
going beyond the 100,000-mile mark. In days gone by, this was certain
death to the resale value of a car. Not any more! There's a market for
high-mileage cars out there! Many people can't afford new car prices,
and they are willing to buy a high-mileage vehicle that has the
creature comforts they want--providing the vehicle has a good service
history. The average age of cars on the road today is 8 to 12 years.
Even if a car is driven only 10,000 miles a year, that's a minimum of
80,000 miles in eight years! To get maximum value out of a
high-mileage vehicle, you must have supporting documentation proving
that the car was maintained throughout its life.
Equipment: Frequently, equipment and options can make the sale, but
they must be in good shape and working! What good is having air
conditioning if it doesn't work? The car may have a good radio, but if
the faceplate is broken, it's a real turn-off. The CD player may look
good, but if it skips when playing CDs, it's worthless. If the rear
defogger doesn't work and only half of the power seats and windows
work, that can hurt the sale more than if the vehicle had no special
features, because it implies poor maintenance. Want maximum resale
value? Then make sure all the equipment is in good working order!
In summary, a car that has been well maintained (with supporting
documentation to prove it), is clean both inside and out, and has
equipment that works will bring maximum resale value to the seller!
INSTALLING ELIMINATOR PIPE WOULD VIOLATE THE LAW
Question: I just purchased a 1984 Subaru station wagon and decided to
take it to a muffler place because I thought it might need a new pipe
or muffler. The mechanic told me that a "pipe" could be put in to
replace the REAR catalytic converter. How many converters are there?
Can I trust this?--Jan
Answer: What the mechanic is referring to is an eliminator pipe
designed to eliminate the catalytic converter. This is a violation of
federal law, and you should run as far from that shop as possible! You
are required by law to restore the vehicle's original exhaust
configuration in order for the vehicle to pass state and federal
emission laws. By removing the catalytic converter, you make the
vehicle ineligible to pass the inspection and emission laws.
KEYHOLE HEATERS
Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you heard me right: keyhole heaters! A
company called ICP Global Technologies has developed a heating lock
de-icer/flashlight. Very simply, the device is a small heating element
powered by two AAA batteries. Push a button and the heating element
(the size of a key) telescopes, allowing you to insert it into the
vehicle's keyhole, whereupon it defrosts the lock cylinder
tumblers. If it's dark and you can't find the keyhole, turn on the
built-in flashlight! This is a sure winner for those of you who live
in the "Frozen Tundra"!
THE MYSTERY OF TIRE SIZING
As promised to one of our readers, we're presenting the basics of tire
sizing--a mystery to many. Not any longer! Here's how to read a
typical tire size. Let's look at a P18575R14 tire:
*"P" means that the tire is rated as a passenger car tire.
*"185" refers to the width (in millimeters) of the tire sidewall to
sidewall. This measurement is accurate if the tire in question is
inflated to its proper pressure and is mounted on the proper rim size
(according to the manufacturer's specifications).
*"75" refers to the height of the sidewall of the tire. This number is
called the aspect ratio. It is a measurement of the percentage of the
width of the tire. In this case, the width is 185 mm, so the height is
185 X 75%, or 138.75 mm.
*"R" refers to the fact that the tire is a radial.
*"14" refers to the rim size in inches.
Light truck tires have the prefix LT in their size description. In
selecting light truck tires, load range is the major concern. Make
sure that the collective load-carrying capacity of all four tires far
exceeds the GVW (gross vehicle weight) of the truck. Try to exceed the
GVW by 2,000 pounds. This way, you'll be covered in the event you have
to carry a heavy load. |
AN ODOR IN THE VENTS |
|
Question: I have a putrid odor in the heater and air conditioning of
my 1999 Ford Escort. We just bought it and whenever we turn it on, it
smells. I have taken it back to the dealer twice, and it still smells.
Is there anything I can do with it?--John
Answer: Your question takes me back to my days at a Pontiac
dealership. One fine day, a sweet old lady came into the dealership
with her Pontiac Bonneville. It seemed that the car stunk (that's a
mild word to describe how bad it was) whenever she turned on the
heater. I was assigned the task of finding the source of the stench. I
narrowed it down to an air duct in the dashboard, where I found the
remains (decaying, maggots and all) of the family's pet gerbil,
Charlie. Charlie had gotten loose in the car two weeks earlier (thanks
to the grandkids) and found his way into the duct, where he got
trapped and died. The moral to my story? Find the source of the
stench--whether it be mold, mildew, moisture, decaying leaves, or
animal matter--and remove it pronto! You might have to disassemble the
ductwork to find the source. In the meantime, wear a gas mask! |
DESIGNER TIRES |
|
People color-coordinate their clothes, makeup, and houses, but how
about their vehicles? Well, a division of Michelin has come up with
colored designer tires. That's right--you can now color-coordinate
your tires to match your vehicle's paint finish! In days gone by, the
black color of the tire was part of the rubber compound. Carbon Black
was used, giving the tire its color and, more importantly, adding to
the durability of the rubber compound. Now Michelin has come up with a
compound that uses Silica, which is just as sturdy and, in its pure
form, is a neutral color (cream-colored). Michelin found that it could
add pigmentation without compromising the durability, and thus came up
with a Tire of Color. At last November's Automotive After Market
Industry Week in Las Vegas, I saw red, purple, yellow, orange, and
turquoise tires. For information, visit
http://www.michelin.com/ |
IN-CAR ORGANIZERS |
|
Case Logic has developed a cool line of new products. The company
observed motorists with disorganized cars, then came up with a
complete line of vehicle organizers. Tired of your grocery bags
falling over, spilling the cans, bottles, and fruit that roll under
the seats? Get the Grocery Organizer from Case Logic! The unit is like
a foldable laundry bag made of tough nylon with compartments designed
to hold grocery bags.
How about this one: You go through the tollbooth, get your ticket, and
place it on the seat. You come to the exit booth and can't find the
blasted ticket (it fell under the seat)! Maybe you should try the Sun
Visor Organizer. This product slips over the sun visor and has pockets
and zippered compartments. I saw these products at the Automotive
After Market Industry Week show last November in Las Vegas, and was
really impressed that Case Logic has come up with a great line that
addresses the unique challenges of today's lifestyles. You can find
more information at the company's Web site:
http://www.caselogic.com/ |
INTERNET AUTO INFORMATION--PART 1 OF 2 |
|
The Internet is a great resource for automotive information. Huge
automotive Web sites are popping up all over the Net. There's so much
out there that it can be confusing, especially if you're a new user.
I've spent numerous hours researching various sites, and I'll share a
few of the sites I use as resources. Today, we'll focus on some
general-interest sites.
TheAutoChannel.com is the "Godzilla" of the automotive sites. You can
download cybercasts (both video and audio) here. Topics include
vehicle reviews, automotive news (domestic and international), racing
news, commentaries by leading automotive experts, reports on trends in
the automotive industry, and much more!
http://www.theautochannel.com/
WomanMotorist.com is dedicated to educating women about automobiles.
Whether you need answers to automotive questions or information about
buying new or used cars, or auto racing, this site delivers!
http://www.womanmotorist.com/
The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's site has the most
comprehensive researchable safety recall and TSB (Technical Service
Bulletin) database I've ever seen. Because the site is menu-driven,
it's quite easy to navigate.
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/ |
INTERNET AUTO INFORMATION--PART 2 OF 2 |
|
The Internet is a great resource for automotive information. Huge
automotive Web sites are popping up all over the Net. There's so much
out there that it can be confusing, especially if you're a new user.
I've spent numerous hours researching various sites, and I'll share a
few of the sites I use as resources. Today, we'll focus on two
special-interest sites.
NASCAR racing online--what more can I say? If you're a fan, then you
need to bookmark this site. Point standings and interest stories on
your favorite drivers along with other stories of NASCAR interest
pepper this site:
http://www.nascar.com/
Off-Road.com is a site for all you four-wheelers! Vehicle reviews, an
events calendar, and truck accessories make up the content of this
site. Off-Road.com was voted the number-one SUV and Truck site on the
Web.
http://www.off-road.com
Maybe you're thinking, "He didn't mention my vehicular interest." This
concern is easy enough to address. You can do keyword searches that
will point you to thousands of sites with your interest at heart. Go
exploring! |
NEW OIL AND AIR FILTER TECHNOLOGY |
|
Fram, a division of Allied Signal, has come up with a new air and oil
filter line, which I learned about at last November's Automotive After
Market Industry Week in Las Vegas. Called the Triad, Fram's new air
filter was an accident, like many great inventions. It seems that the
carpet pile division of Allied Signal designed a new carpet fiber that
failed miserably as a carpet pile. Someone in the filter division got
hold of the fiber and tried it as air filter media. The carpet fiber
held three times as much dirt as conventional filter media without
inhibiting airflow. Thus, the Triad air filter was born.
The oil filters are called Extra Guard and Tough Guard, both with Sure
Grip. Extra Guard has greater filtering capabilities and higher
temperature resistance for passenger cars than does the Tough Guard,
which is designed for the light truck segment. Sure Grip is a
rough-textured, non-slip top that allows you to better grip the filter
for tightening, even with oily hands. More information on the new
filters is available through the company's Web site:
http://www.fram.com/ |
THE 3,000-MILE OIL CHANGE--PART 1 OF 4 |
|
Lately, there has been a lot of discussion on the topic of changing
oil. Specifically, how often should it be changed? Car manufacturers
suggest changing the oil and filter every 7,500 miles under normal
conditions, and every 3,000 miles under severe conditions. I propose
changing the oil and filter every 3,000 miles--period! You might ask,
"Why waste the money?" Upon close inspection of your owner's manual,
you'll discover that the manual defines "severe" and "normal"
conditions. You'll be operating the vehicle under "severe service"
conditions if you:
*Make frequent short trips (less than five miles)
*Make frequent short trips (less than ten miles) when temperatures are
below freezing
*Drive in stop-and-go traffic during hot weather
*Drive at low speeds for long period of times (like in heavy traffic)
*Drive at sustained high speeds during hot weather (interstate
driving)
*Drive in areas with heavy dust and gravel
*Tow a trailer
Correct me if I'm wrong, but don't most of us drive in these
conditions one way or another every day? Change your oil and filter
every 3,000 miles. For those of you who use synthetic oil, change it
every 6,000 miles; synthetic oil is less affected by heat and
oxidation. |
THE 3,000-MILE OIL CHANGE--PART 2 OF 4 |
|
What conditions must your car's oil withstand? Let's discuss the
environment inside the four-stroke internal combustion engine, where
the oil does its job. For every complete revolution the crankshaft
makes, a piston travels up and down one time. We'll call this a
stroke. At 3800 RPM (rotations per minute), or roughly 65mph, each
piston in a V8 engine strokes 475 times per minute, or approximately
eight times per second. That's moving! The pistons and cylinders are
made of metal, and the average combustion chamber temperature is
1,000-plus degrees at any given time. Would you say that these are
intense conditions? I would. These environmental conditions include
friction, intense heat, and corrosive contaminants. Makes working on a
chain gang look easy, doesn't it? I'll describe these conditions in
more detail in the next tip. |
THE 3,000-MILE OIL CHANGE--PART 3 OF 4 |
|
Here's a more detailed description of the environmental conditions
inside your car's engine:
Friction: The hundreds of moving metal parts rubbing against each
other create intense heat and pressure. These factors would destroy
the engine in a short period of time were it not for the oil
circulating through it. The oil's job is to provide a lubricating film
between the moving parts of the car's engine to decrease the friction
and its negative effects.
Intense heat: As we stated previously, the average combustion chamber
temperature is 1,000-plus degrees. In water-cooled or air-cooled
engines, water or air achieves approximately 60 percent of the
cooling. The oil performs the rest of the cooling function. It
circulates rapidly through the engine at a pressure of 50 to 70 pounds
per square inch, carrying heat away from the crankshaft, camshaft,
rods, pistons, and valve train. The oil is then circulated in the
lower structure of the engine, where it is mixed with oil that has
been cooled by air passing over the crankcase (or oil pan).
Contaminants: Soot, ash, acid, and moisture--natural by-products of
operation--build up in your car's engine. This results in dirt in the
form of sludge, varnish, and resins that become baked onto engine
parts and interfere with proper performance and oil flow. The motor
oil in your car's engine has a detergent built into it that disperses
the dirt, keeping it suspended within the oil until it's either
filtered out by the oil filter or drained away when you change it.
We'll talk more about the oil's function in the next tip. |
THE 3,000-MILE OIL CHANGE--PART 4 OF 4 |
|
In addition to performing multiple tasks under extreme environmental
conditions, the oil must perform another function. To the naked eye,
the piston rings and cylinder walls of the engine appear perfectly
smooth. But they're not. Under microscopic examination, a large number
of "hills and valleys" appear. These impressions provide an escape
route for vapor and gases during the compression and power stroke of
the engine. If this escape occurs, it is called blowby, and it results
in the loss of engine power and excessive tailpipe emissions in the
form of hydrocarbons (unburned gases). The oil must seal these gaps to
prevent blowby.
In summary, the demands made on the oil are very draining (no pun
intended). The oil eventually loses its ability to lubricate, clean,
cool, and flow freely. This process is called viscosity breakdown.
Each function is extremely important to the performance and life of
the engine. Changing the oil every 3,000 miles is cheap insurance,
with an extremely high cash value. Which do you prefer? Oil and filter
changes at $19.95 every 3,000 miles, or an engine replacement every
40,000 to 50,000 miles at $3,000 to $5,000? It's your choice! |
THE HIGH-PERFORMANCE BMW |
|
Question: I'm thinking of buying a new BMW 323 coupe. What is your
opinion of the car and its reputation for reliability and frequency of
repairs? It also requires premium fuel. Why would a six-cylinder need
that grade of gas? What would happen if it ran on regular gas?--Sam
Answer: Not only are BMW 323 coupes reliable, they are also stylish,
comfortable, and perform wonderfully! These cars require premium fuel
because of the high-performance aspects of the engine, including high
compression, performance camshafts, hi-flow cylinder heads, and
variable valve timing. Running low-grade gas in them will cause
decreased performance. Face it, Sam: If you wanna drive a Beemer, you
gotta pay the price! |
BROKEN SPARK PLUG |
|
Question: A friend of mine has a mid-90's Chevy Blazer with a V-6.
Over the weekend, the center of one of the spark plugs blew out,
leaving the metal part in the cylinder head. He tried to remove it,
and the hex part broke off, leaving just the threads in the cylinder
head! We sprayed penetrating oil on it and tried an easy out
(extractor) with no success. Is there any way to get the rest of the
spark plug out without taking off the cylinder head? Can I use a set
of torches in conjunction with a special easy out? I'm sure you've run
into this problem before and possibly would know some trick to it. We
have access to most of the tools, torches, and so forth, that we may
need. Any help would be appreciated.--Joe
Answer: Yes, I have run into this sort of problem in the past. Try to
flag down a professional tool truck, such as a Mac or Snap-On (or look
them up in the phone book). They are distributors of professional hand
tools, and I know that they sell extractors specifically designed to
address this sort of problem. I would be careful about using heat on
the head, as the metal is thin and can easily melt (aluminum is very
heat-sensitive). Before using the torches, call an automotive machine
shop and get an opinion as to where you can safely apply heat.
Worst-case scenario? You pull the cylinder head and take it to a
machine shop for removal of the broken spark plug. That's still
cheaper than replacing the cylinder head in my opinion. It's not as
bad as you think! |
NEW ALARM TECHNOLOGY |
|
Car alarms have really come a long way! In the past, alarm systems
only made noise to deter theft and vandalism. Today, the basic alarm
system has several features. For example, in some systems the ignition
is disabled when there is an intruder. Some systems sense motion both
inside and outside the vehicle; and other systems release a harmless
vapor inside the vehicle, making it impossible to see. Another feature
available connects the automatic locks to the interior lighting so
that when the vehicle is unlocked, you can see if anyone is inside.
Finally, a feature that isn't designed to deal with an intruder, but
is very convenient, is the remote start system, capable of starting
the car from up to a quarter mile away.
Better still, in some ways, are the developing online and satellite
monitoring systems. Is this stuff "Star Wars" technology? Anyone
entering the vehicle who doesn't have the entry code will prompt the
system to call the 24-hour monitoring service. The service then calls
the owner via cellular phone (which is part of the system). The owner
is given the options of disabling the vehicle, calling the police, or
confronting the perpetrator. Most people call the police. There's also
a feature that can trace the times and whereabouts of the vehicle for
the last 30 days and, if you find the vehicle in a questionable place,
the monitoring service will disable the engine. |
ONBOARD NAVIGATION SYSTEMS |
|
Satellites have made many things possible, including this gem of an
accessory: the onboard navigation system. The system works through a
computer, software, and global positioning sensors. You simply install
the software, plug in a destination, and drive off. The system
monitors your progress and guides you along the way, pointing out your
position on the LCD map on your dashboard. |
MOBILITY PRODUCTS--PART 1 OF 5 |
|
Many people who have mobility problems can still enjoy the
independence and fun of driving. Even when a physically challenged
person isn't driving, his or her accessibility to a vehicle is still
important. Recently, I spoke at length with a mobility expert. Here's
what I found out.
The type of mobility product you need depends on the type of physical
impairment you have. For instance, if you're in a wheelchair due to
paralysis, you should have a van outfitted with the mobility package.
Why a van? Because vans have more room to work with and are easier to
adapt. You can have your van equipped with hand controls (which take
the place of foot controls for driving), an anchoring system to hold
the wheelchair securely to the floor while driving, and a wheelchair
lift to lift the chair (with you in it) into the van. |
MOBILITY PRODUCTS--PART 2 OF 5 |
|
Many people who have mobility problems can still enjoy the
independence and fun of driving. Even when a physically challenged
person isn't driving, his or her accessibility to a vehicle is still
important. Recently, I spoke at length with a mobility expert. Here's
what I found out.
Let's say that you're not in a wheelchair, but you have difficulty
walking. What's available for an individual who fits this description?
The best choice for a person who is semi-ambulatory is the scooter.
You might have seen scooters being used in supermarkets or in shopping
malls. They're simply small vehicles designed to operate indoors or
outdoors and in close quarters. This is a great form of mobility for
the semi-ambulatory individual. Of course, the scooters have to be
transported. You can equip your vehicle to carry the scooter wherever
you want to go. Combination wheelchair/scooter lifts make this
possible. You can get these lifts with fully or semi-automatic
functions. |
MOBILITY PRODUCTS--PART 3 OF 5 |
|
Many people who have mobility problems can still enjoy the
independence and fun of driving. Even when a physically challenged
person isn't driving, his or her accessibility to a vehicle is still
important. Recently, I spoke at length with a mobility expert. Here's
what I found out.
People with disabilities can have many modifications made to their
cars, full-size vans, minivans, and pickup trucks. These modifications
include:
*Left-footed gas pedals
*Right-handed turn signal levers
*Zero-effort power steering
*Vacuum and manual driving controls for the paraplegic and
quadriplegic
*Power seat bases with easy access
*Ramps and lowered floors for easy access with wheelchairs
*Remote controls for power doors and locks
*Wheelchair lifts and storage for pickup trucks with third doors |
MOBILITY PRODUCTS--PART 4 OF 5 |
|
Many people who have mobility problems can still enjoy the
independence and fun of driving. Even when a physically challenged
person isn't driving, his or her accessibility to a vehicle is still
important. Recently, I spoke at length with a mobility expert. Here's
what I found out.
Vehicles can be modified in a variety of ways to allow easy access for
wheelchairs. These modifications include:
*Raising the doors and roofs of a van for ease of entry in a
wheelchair
*Lowering the floor of the van
*Installing floor anchoring systems to secure the wheelchair while
person is driving
*Installing a hide-away ramp system under the van's floor
Mobility companies, such as Braun, offer such products as the Chair
Topper. This is a wheelchair carrier that mounts on top of your car,
allowing transportation of your wheelchair. The carrier has a lift
built in, allowing you to easily hoist the chair onto it for
transporting. The Braun Corporation also offers the Entervan, a
completely rebuilt Chrysler minivan designed specifically for
physically challenged people. The Entervan includes lowered floors,
anchoring systems, ramps, hand controls--virtually anything a person
needs can be incorporated into one of these beauties. You can check
out some of the options at the company's Web site:
http://www.braunlift.com/ |
MOBILITY PRODUCTS--PART 5 OF 5 |
|
Many people who have mobility problems can still enjoy the
independence and fun of driving. Even when a physically challenged
person isn't driving, his or her accessibility to a vehicle is still
important. Recently, I spoke at length with a mobility expert. Here's
what I found out.
When it comes to mobility products such as those described in the last
few tips, you may be thinking, "That's all good and well, Tom, but
we're talking big money here, and I just don't have it!" You would be
amazed at the resources available to you! For instance, if you need a
loan for this type of equipment, you can get it on a Recreational
Vehicle Loan (actual qualifiers may vary from state to state) for an
extended length of time. Also, cash-back Auto Mobility Rebates from
GM, Chrysler, and Ford are available. These companies provide up to
$1,000 in rebates for the installation of mobility products for the
physically challenged. Contact your county about monies available for
individuals with disabilities. |
A CAREER IN COLLISION REPAIR |
|
Question: I want to go to school for collision/body work. My dad has
been in the business for over 35 years. He knows everything from
leading to framework, but no one is hiring in our area. Do you think
things will change?--Sean
Answer: While there are no guarantees regarding what the future will
hold, I can tell you this: There has been a consistent decline of
students enrolling in the field of automotive collision repair in this
country. Although there may be a current lull in the job market in
your area, the job availability here in western New York seems to be
cyclical (openings about every 18 months). Geographical areas vary, so
if you're willing to move, you'll find a position if you're qualified.
You may have difficulty getting started once you graduate. The trade
schools do a great job of teaching theory and methodology, but a true
craftsman (or craftswoman--yes, there are women in this field) is born
from hands-on experience. Most employers hesitate to take on an
apprentice, opting instead to go with a more experienced technician.
Don't let this deter you. If collision work is something you really
want to do, stick with it. Precious few careers offer the satisfaction
of seeing the finished product and the pride of a job well done.
We've seen the resource pool (the availability of talented collision
technicians) pretty much dry up in the past few years. No one seems to
have the answer as to whether this condition will improve in the near
future. One thing you must remember: Bright stars always shine! So get
out there and impress someone with what you can do, and you'll find
your place. |
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: SOLENOID |
|
Solenoids are electromagnetic switches. When electricity is sent to
the solenoid, a magnetic field forms. The magnetic field moves a metal
piston, which is connected to a mechanism that performs a function.
When the metal piston moves, the application is made. The application
may be the moving of a valve, switch, or mechanical linkage. |
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: TORQUE CONVERTER |
|
The torque converter turns hydraulic pressure within an automatic
transmission to mechanical torque, which drives the drive shafts and,
ultimately, the wheels of your car. In design, the torque converter is
similar to a turbine engine. Fluid is forced under pressure through
small passages called fins. These passages vary in size and flip-flop
in direction. As fluid is forced through the passages (which get
smaller in size), a strong, almost solid "fluid coupling" is created.
This is what drives the drive shafts and wheels. |
COLLISION REPAIR TAKES TIME |
|
When having your vehicle repaired after a collision, you must realize
that quality repair takes time. Be patient! Your collision repair
expert has no control over such factors as parts suppliers, insurance
companies, and insurance adjusters. Add to the mix the need for close
and careful inspection of the vehicle for any hidden damage due to the
collision. In addition, the repair expert must make sure that all the
welds are of high quality to ensure structural integrity. And finally,
you want a precise and detailed job done so that all the parts fit
exactly (not just hammered in place). Work of this nature takes time.
The average price of a new car is about $22,000. That's a lot of
dough! Would you want to hurry the repair of such an expensive item
that has to cart you and your family around safely? Don't rush it! |
MOBILE VIDEO SYSTEMS |
|
Have a van or minivan? Have kids? Are you tired of the loud, hostile
noises that emanate from the restless natives in the back seat of the
vehicle? Well then, I've got just the thing for you! Quiet those
little terrors with a mobile video system. This system consists of an
LCD screen mounted on the roof; the screen drops down for back-seat
viewing. A VCR is mounted in the console. Joysticks (optional) for
video games are available, as well as headsets. Bring their favorite
video or video game, and you might have peaceful driving! |
OIL ADDITIVES |
|
It's 2 a.m. and you're tossing and turning in bed, unable to sleep.
Totally
frustrated, you go downstairs and turn on the television, hoping to
find something boring enough to sedate you. While channel surfing, you
come across "Insomniac Theatre" and the feature tonight is--TA
DA--engine oil additives!
You're transfixed as you watch several heads bowed, intensely hovering
over what looks like a car engine and performing what appears to be a
dark religious ritual. They're adding an "elixir" to the engine oil,
running the engine briefly and then draining out the oil. To your
amazement, they're now starting up the engine! The ceremony starts to
crescendo to a feverish pitch. Grown men are jumping up and down,
hooting and hollering, and watching an engine that's about to blow up.
Just before it blows, they shut it off, exclaiming the magic of this
secret potion and its ability to protect the car engine from the wrath
of the automotive gods. It seems that everyone is looking for this
magic elixir--the "Engine Extender," the "Fountain of Youth," the
"Mechanic in a Can." Can you find the "fountain" in the use of such
products?
These products are designed to be lubricant enhancers. In theory, when
they are present, the oil in your engine is supposed to do its job
better and longer. And that it might do--for a short period of time,
until the hostile environment of the internal combustion engine breaks
it down, as it does to the motor oil. Unfortunately, the intense
claims of these products give people a false sense of security. This
often results in putting off oil and filter changes, which should be
done every 3,000 miles. The ultimate result is premature engine
failure. Searching for the automotive fountain of youth? Then change
your oil and filter every 3,000 miles. |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 1 OF 6 |
|
What should you look for when purchasing a used car? This has been a
frequently asked question lately. So, being the service-minded
individual that I am, I'm beginning a series of tips to provide you
with an outline of what I consider a pre-purchase inspection. Today,
let's consider the customer's preliminary inspection:
*Try to be the first one who starts the car that day, making note of
any noxious fumes, odd noises, or starting difficulties. Turn the car
off for a minute while still cold, and restart it to check for cold
restarting problems.
*While traveling down side streets, stop and start frequently, noting
brake and transmission performance.
*If all is well to this point, take the road test to higher speeds.
After the car has reached operating temperature, turn the car off and
restart it in 20 minutes (this is called a hot soak). Difficulty
restarting the car after a hot soak could indicate trouble.
*Ask to see all the service records on the car.
*If the car passes these tests, then it's time for the second stage of
the pre-purchase inspection: a formal inspection with your repair
facility. |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 2 OF 6 |
|
Today, let's consider the test drive that you should take with your
automotive technician. The test drive route should include left and
right turns, smooth and rough pavement, slow back streets, and
fast-paced main arteries. This gives the technician a chance to see
how the vehicle performs under various road conditions. During the
test vehicle ride, transmission operation, brake performance, and
engine performance are scrutinized. The technician listens, looks,
smells, and feels for anything out of the ordinary. The technician
also checks the operation of the HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air
conditioning), stereo system, seats, windows, locks and latches, and
equipment such as map and courtesy lights and rear defoggers.
In our next tip, we'll look at things your technician will want to
examine back at the shop. |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 3 OF 6 |
|
As part of our series on evaluating a used car you'd like to buy,
we'll focus today on the under-the-hood inspection. Just as a doctor
can tell a lot about the condition of our bodies by analyzing our
fluids, so can the technician tell a lot about the health of a car's
systems by analyzing its fluids.
The technician will check engine oil dipsticks for heavy varnish or
black deposits. The presence of these substances may indicate the
engine has habitually been run with low oil levels and/or the oil has
not been changed. He or she will also check the power steering fluid
for color and the presence of metal flakes. Blackened fluid
impregnated with metal flakes is an indication of wear in the system.
The car's automatic transmission fluid should be red and clean. A
brown color with a burned smell can signal a worn transmission. The
engine coolant should be "clean-'n'-green" (or orange in some cases).
The presence of dirt may mean anything from neglect to serious engine
damage. The technician should find the brake fluid clean and full. Low
brake fluid may indicate worn brakes or a leak in the system.
While the technician is looking under the hood, he or she will check
belts, hoses, and pulleys for proper operation and condition. |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 4 OF 6 |
|
In our last tip, we considered areas that your technician can inspect
under the car's hood. Today, we'll consider the undercarriage
inspection.
The technician should put the vehicle on a lift and inspect the
undercarriage with a fine-toothed comb. What will the technician look
for? Such things as:
*Rusted brake and fuel lines
*Major fluid leaks
*Loose or damaged suspension and steering parts
*Manual transmission and differential levels and condition
*Worn brake friction material and hardware
*Condition of exhaust system
*Tire condition (wear, tread depth, and so forth)
*Condition of frame (rust or severe damage) |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 5 OF 6 |
|
After your initial test drive and your technician's under-the-hood and
undercarriage inspections, you should move on to the vehicle's
external inspection.
Check all the lights. Check the operation of the doors, trunk lid,
hatch (if applicable), and hood. Stiffness may indicate worn or broken
hinges and hinge springs. Also, a close look at the body by a trained
eye usually brings to light any collision repairs or paint work that
might have been done. Blistering of the paint may be a sign of hidden
rust. Have your technician take a look.
Finally, match the VIN (vehicle identification number) at the lower
left-hand corner of the windshield with the VIN on the door jamb
sticker. They should be identical. A discrepancy could mean that the
VIN was intentionally altered, an indication that the vehicle may have
been rebuilt or stolen. |
PRE-PURCHASE INSPECTIONS--PART 6 OF 6 |
|
If the used car passes all the inspections we've mentioned in the last
few tips (the preliminary check, the test drive, and the
under-the-hood, undercarriage, and external inspections), then a
compression test and electronic analysis is in order to make sure the
engine, electrical, and performance systems are in good health. Since
you're undoubtedly a faithful TipWorld reader, I'll assume you ran a
Carfax report on the car to make sure the title was clean. If not,
then log on to my Web site at
http://www.carshowtomt.com
and click on the little lemon icon on the home page. This will take
you to Carfax, where you can have a title search done on the vehicle.
Make sure you check the service history, looking for the previous
owner's consistency in following recommended maintenance schedules. If
the previous owner kept records that showed the car was maintained,
such evidence is extremely valuable and should be one of the major
factors in your decision to purchase the vehicle. Pre-purchase
inspections and their prices will vary based on the car. It might cost
you up to $100, but you could save thousands by not buying a money
pit. Be an informed consumer: Have a pre-purchase inspection done on
the next used car you're considering buying! |
SPARK PLUG BEHIND THE STEERING COLUMN |
|
Question: We have a '95 Chevy S-10 Pickup, with a 4.3-liter engine and
automatic transmission. We're trying to replace the spark plugs, but
one spark plug is behind the steering column. Do we have to remove the
steering column and/or the steering box? The spark plug is totally
inaccessible due to the size of the steering shaft, and it is covered
with a rubber shroud.--Fred
Answer: Find a Mac Tool dealer and buy the double-jointed spark plug
socket, as well as a set of the insulated spark plug wire pliers. The
pliers will give you the grip you need to remove the spark plug boot,
and the socket will give you the flexibility you need to get around
the steering column. Have fun. |
THE CLUTCH SAFETY SWITCH |
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Question: I have a '95 Ford Ranger pickup with a five-speed manual
transmission. If I don't have the clutch pushed in all the way to the
floor, it won't start. If I let the clutch out and then push it back
in all the way to the floor, then it starts. What's going on?--Cindy
Answer: Automakers long ago realized the need to protect motorists
from themselves. If someone attempted to start the engine with the
transmission in gear and his or her foot off the clutch, the vehicle
would lurch forward, posing a safety threat.
To address the problem, engineers developed the clutch safety switch.
The starter motor won't engage without your stepping on the clutch to
the floor, regardless of the position of the gearshift selector. Ford
designers use a switch mounted near the floor that is in series with
the starter activation circuit. The switch is mechanical, and
sometimes the slide sticks and the electrical terminals never make
contact.
My guess is that the switch is worn out. It's a good idea to have a
technician verify my suspicion and replace the part. After all, it's
for your protection! |
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: CLUTCH |
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A clutch is a device that allows a solid coupling to be formed between
the transmission and the engine. The clutch is manufactured out of a
friction material, such as asbestos, and is shaped in the form of a
disc. Located between the pressure plate and the flywheel, the clutch
connects the engine with the transmission by creating a solid
coupling. This solid coupling can be engaged and disengaged, allowing
the gears to be changed with one push of the clutch pedal. |
CHANGING TO UNLEADED FUEL |
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Question: Due to government regulations on clean air here in the
Philippines, I need some tips or instructions on how to change my
leaded fuel system to an unleaded fuel system. My car is a 1978 Toyota
Crown with a 5R engine. Any information will be greatly
appreciated.--Joe
Answer: Lead is used in gasoline as an octane enhancer. Adding lead to
fuel permits higher compression engines to operate in higher heat
ranges without the engine developing an inclination toward detonation
or pre-ignition (pinging).
Lead in gasoline sounds like a winning combination and in fact it was,
until it was discovered that inhalation of lead is harmful to people
(especially children and pregnant women). While attempting to find a
substitute, petrochemical engineers discovered that the use of
alcohols and ethers could supplant lead as an anti-knock solution.
Today, clean air laws often demand that lead be removed from gasoline
products for obvious health concerns.
Lead provided a bonus benefit. It acted as a lubricant and actually
reduced the galling that takes place between the engine valves and the
seats. When lead was removed from gasoline here in the United States,
many engines developed valve recession. To prevent this condition,
hardened valve seats were installed. In reference to your question,
you may need to have new seats installed on your cylinder head for
this reason.
However, you do have a couple of other options. One is to add a lead
substitute each time you buy gasoline. This is usually available in a
parts store. The other option is to get a newer car. Most modern cars
are already equipped with hardened valve seats.
You may not like the options I've listed, but at least the air in the
Philippines will be healthier to breathe! |
AUTOMOTIVE TERM: BRAKE CALIPER |
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A brake caliper is a housing that fits over the brake disc and holds
the brake pads in place. The brake caliper is hydraulically activated.
Here's how it works: When the brake pedal is depressed, the master
cylinder pumps brake fluid into the caliper. The hydraulic pressure
created by the fluid moves pistons located inside the caliper. These
pistons push against the brake pad, which then makes contact with the
disc, creating friction and thus stopping the car. |
DEALER VS. INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOPS--PART 1 OF 3 |
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For years, people have asked me what kind of shop to use for
automotive repairs: a dealership or an independent shop? I have shied
away from answering this question because I see benefits both ways
and, no matter how I answer it, someone always gets offended. I can no
longer duck the question because it comes up so frequently from people
everywhere. Readers in the United States as well as abroad are posing
it to me relentlessly! So let's discuss it. I'll present advantages
and disadvantages of both types of shops, then you decide what's best
for you--dealership or independent shop.
Has anyone noticed that dealerships are expanding their marketing
campaigns to draw the retail customer into the dealership for service?
Check out the advertising lately--Ford ("America's Newest Tire Store")
and GM ("Good Wrench Service Plus"). Dealers are offering longer
nationwide warranties, certified technicians, and original equipment
parts at competitive prices. Why is this happening? Well, for a number
of reasons. The new car profits are at such a low that the service
departments must step up to the plate and become profitable for the
dealership to survive. Another reason is that warranty work used to
represent 70 percent of the service done at dealerships. Today that
figure has fallen to about 20 percent because cars are made better and
last longer! And, finally, dealerships are offering better service in
an effort to capture the customer's car purchases. |
DEALER VS. INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOPS--PART 2 OF 3 |
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Let's take a look at some of the advantages dealership service
departments have to offer. In order to maintain their franchise
licenses, dealerships must pay for training their technicians and
providing special tools and equipment. Dealers also have access to
proprietary information, usually one year's worth of information on
new vehicles they sell and service. This means that no one else can
access this information, which is often necessary for diagnosis and
repair. In addition, dealership service departments work mainly on the
makes and models they sell. Since they're very familiar with the
particular car line, they can usually pinpoint a problem more quickly
and more accurately.
Dealership technicians are usually paid according to a "flat rate."
When a job is dispatched to a technician, the clock starts. If an
operation calls for a time frame of two hours, then the labor will be
two times the shop's hourly rate. If the technician is proficient at
this particular operation and can do it in half the time, the customer
still pays for two hours of labor and the tech earns two hours of pay
for one hour of work. Conversely, if the tech does the job in more
than the allowed time, the customer still pays for two hours of labor.
This method of payment holds a standard hourly rate for the customer,
and yet rewards highly skilled technicians.
A drawback to this method is that technicians may find themselves
hurrying to make a quota. In addition, technicians may be reluctant to
work on vehicles other than those in the car line they usually service
because they're not as familiar with those vehicles and, consequently,
the job will probably take longer. With these considerations, there's
the possibility of cutting corners to get the work done faster, or
lack of expertise if the tech is working on a vehicle that he or she
has little experience with. A good service manager whose goal is to
serve the customer and develop a long-term relationship with him or
her averts these potential problems.
Traditionally, dealerships' hourly rates have been higher than those
of the independent shops because of overhead, cost of tools, and
training. That trend is changing because independents are realizing
the escalating costs associated with the rapid technological changes
taking place--the need for ongoing training and for purchasing new
equipment and tools. |
DEALER VS. INDEPENDENT REPAIR SHOPS--PART 3 OF 3 |
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Now that we've evaluated the dealership service departments, let's
take a look at the independent shop. Independent repair facilities
have always been there to serve the neighborhood. In the past, many
dealerships viewed the customer as a potential car sale, and their
focus was not on customer service. Consequently, the customer was
driven (no pun intended) from the dealership to the independent
facility, where one could enjoy a cup of coffee along with a sincere
conversation about the customer's family as well as his or her car
(we've coined a name for it now--personal service!). In addition to a
personal relationship, the independent offers versatility of services
on diverse makes and models of vehicles. Today, top-quality
independent repair facilities also offer nationwide warranties through
the parts suppliers and the associations they deal with. Comparing the
independents with the dealerships, the scales are balancing in this
arena! As far as the hourly rate for work goes, independents have been
able to offer better prices--although that may be changing.
What about the cost of repair? Independents charge a flat rate for
their services. They use the same "book" as the dealerships to
determine the time a job should take, and they charge the customer
accordingly. The difference is that the technician is usually paid an
hourly rate (based on his or her actual performance) or a salary.
There is no incentive to hurry through a job or compete with other
techs for the "easier" job. Also, seasoned techs who have worked in
independent facilities have a wealth of experience and knowledge from
years of working on a variety of vehicles. They are an excellent
resource for difficult car repairs.
Because of the rapid changes in automotive technology, it's vital that
the independent facility you choose is qualified to work on your car.
The facility must be up to speed on the latest technology, methods,
training, and equipment. The trend in the past ten years has been for
the independents--at least the ones that are serious and in for the
long haul--to upgrade their facilities and equipment, as well as train
their technicians, because automotive technology is escalating at
rocket speed! Here are some certifications to watch for:
*ASE (Automotive Service Excellence)
*NAPA Autocare Center
*AAA Approved Auto Repair (American Automobile Association)
*ICAR (Inter-Industry Conference on Auto Collision Repair)
*ASP (Automotive Service Professionals)
*AC-Delco (General Motors' Service Parts Division)
*BBB (Better Business Bureau)
*Parts Plus Car Care Center
With all this said, what's my opinion? Find a facility (either a
dealership service department or an independent repair facility)
you're comfortable with, one that suits your needs. Make sure it is
highly qualified to do the work. Develop an ongoing relationship with
the facility--don't hop from shop to shop looking for the next "deal."
Finally, enjoy driving a safe and reliable vehicle. |
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